Process of knitting bias-lace knitted neckties.



JEKELLNER @Z s WGRMS, imams of mmm@ BIAS LAGE KNHTED NEGKTIES.

AP?3`.IGAT10NMLBD MAR. 1r, 1912..

1,G'"2,?3 Patented Sept. 9, 1913.

Fig.

UNTED STATES ,JOSEF KELLNEE, F BROOKLYN, AN D PATENT crains.

.SIDNEY WORKS, QF NEW BQCHELLE, NEW YORK,

ASSIGNOIRS TO FRANKLIN KNITTING MILLS, A CORFUBATIQN 'QF NEW YORK- il Pnocnss or xmfrrrite Business KNITTED Nncii'rins.

Speccation of Letters latent.

Application filed Merch 11, 1913. Serial ND, 753,650.

Tall 'whom z' may concer-7L Be it known that we, Jos-EF KELLNER, a

. subject ef the Emperor of Germany, and

SIDNEY Worms, a citizen of the United States, residing, respectively, at' Brooklyn, in the countv of Kings and State of New York, and New Rochelle, in the county of Westchester and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Processes of Knitting Bias-Lace Knitted Neckties, of which 'the following is a speciiicatien.

This invention relates 'to the process of knitting, and more particularly to the knit.- ting of neckties and scarfs, the object of the invention being to, provide an improved process or method-'of knitting neckties and scarfs, whereby the tie may have a. stripe or stripes therein, having a lace elfect on a. true orsubstantially true bias, and may also have therein at one .or both sides of such lace formed stripe, a stripe or stripes each of one or more colors, all of which stripes maybe fed or shot intoV the tie at intervals and which `neclfztie may have a narrew neck por-A tion merging into a gradually widened liaring .end or ends andthe body of which tie may be knitted of one or several colors to give an irid'escent or accordion effect.

A further object .of the, invention is the f provision of an improved process whereby a knitted tie is formed with its thread loops on a bias, and which tie may have therein likewise on a bias a stripe or stripes of a lace formation, or other designand atone or both sides thereof may have a stripe or stripes of a contrasting color or celors also located on a bias.

In the drawings accoinpanying and forining a part of this specication, Figurel is a cross-sectional view of a part of one term of a iiat 4knitting machine, which may be provided for carrying out this improved process; Figs. 2, 3, el, and 5, illustrate a portion of the needle beds, one .of which is shown in dierent positiens'; Fig. 6 a pair et needles; Fig. 7 one of the-.cam locks for shifting the needles; Fig. 8 is a sectional View of one form of tensioning means; and Fig. 9 is a. view of a necktie illustrating .the diagonal stripes .of different design, shown more Clearly however in- Fig .8', where the,`

and so on,

een@ is lunga-atea passing ilu-@ugh sie (ne :e'ential tensioning means.

Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the diderent glises ci the drawing. A

inclined needle beds 2 and 8 suitably snp-v ported by standards il, one onlyef which is shown, and which needle beds carry two sets 0f needles 5 and 6 shiftable inthe usual way by a shiftable carriage 7 having cam-locks 8.

Located below the inclined beds is a suitable' di-iiferential tension or take up device for giving proper tension to the work as it is knitted. This tension means in the present 'insta-nce com rises a roll 9 suitabl mounted upon a shaft l0 and a series of rolls mounted upon a shaft l2. In the present instancey four o these rolls are shown', one of which, as 13, llis'lecated directly upon the shaft, While the other three, as 14, l5 and 16, are each provided with a tubular shaft', as 17,

or 18- or 19, one located within the other,"`

and ,i the ends .offthese tubular shafts j?,

Patented sept. e, intel 18 angl-.19 arelocated gears 20, 2l and 22,.;

and on the end of the shaft 12 is also xed a gear 23, these gears being so proportioned that the roll 16 while the roll 15 will so that the greatest speed will be given to spur gears a stud sha-'ft Vwhich may source .ci power and carries in the present instance series of four gears 25, 26, 27 'andy 28 of .gradually increasing diameter meshing with the gears 23, 09

2l and 2t) respectively.y

will have the smallest gear have the next largest,-

the roll 16, lFer operating these is provided, be driven from any suitable Thus it will he observed? `that the greatest tension will be placedupnn side of the fabric engaged by the nell. 16 by reasen ed. course it will he `f its greater s nnderstond that the pcsitinn of gears conld be changed se that the greats f v sion conld be placed upon the opposite sine.

for the piu-pose` hereinafter described.`

l .In carrying outthis the knitting .is started with a. certain width in thema-- chine, *and by gradually throwing. out ,of f

operatien certa-in needles on Lene side ,tlietief will be tapered .Qn .Oileside, while itl is rela tile' Strai .ht en the .other side until-the l ing into operation certain needles on one side, the opposite end ot the vtie will be grad ually tia-red onrone side and knitted straight on the other, thus to provide a tie having a pair of Wide dow-ing afing ends. By using threads oi'dittcrent coiors an iridescent or accordion e'tliectmay be given to the tie by reason of' the fact that the tie Will have longitudinally tlereoit alternate colors or rows r Wales i .Pit intervals along the tic "stripes )eotniar y and in someinstances this design has much the appearance oi" a lace elect, this being obtained during the feeding into the tie of threads preit'erably ot another color or colors andvoy the particular manipulation of the needl heds, and in some instances, to the style ci the lace Work, manipt rot the needles. in the present instance hy improved process are located on a trne or substantially true bias, and so far as We are, aware it has never hereto- 'oreheenpossihle to knit such a neclrtie with stripes of this character on a true hias. At each side of these stripes in the torni ot necktie shown, there is provided one or more stripes ot' contrasting col r or colors to the bodj,T ot the tie and it' desired to the intermediate lace formed stripes, and these stripes are likewise located. on a true bias.

AToaccomplish this process the rear needle hed isl provid means which he automatic il'A hand, tor racnin. it .,p lv step during the'lrnitt' u ne tie wherebyv the stripes will he located on a true bias .when the tiel is completed. In the present instance the rearqn e hed E2 is shown rackedn'y hand, purpose it is provided with a o., ed having a stu-: i i1-movable in gro ve 32 of a earnA 33 mounted on a short sh 34 carrvinga handie 35,A on the Sliiting of which the rear needle hed 72 Will be racked or shogged to the left as shown in F'gs. and il or "the rightv as sho-Wn in Y 1t and 5, and by racking thev needle lied inthe manner shown the positions of the rear needles are changed with relation iront needles', that is tolsay, when the re s hed, which is' normally in the if' own 5, is racked to the shown in Figs. 2 and 3 each rear cn will .Worlt opposite its companion front needle` tnt on the left zside ther "E, the needle bed is racked h as shown in d and 5 est@ i posite its 'con' side ther f. ing the needle be in la manner i design are it'ornfied,l

avail tothe right., prior to the carriage moving to the right, or as the carriage is moved to the right but prior to its engagement ywith the needles to'be operated, and the bed is racked bach to the leftprior to the movement of the carriage to the lett, or during such movement but prior to its engagement with the needles to be operated. By starting the racking movement for instance to the'right, the stripes will be located on one bias or in one direction, but by revers- 'ing this' and starting the rackingmove ment to the left When the knitting opera'.- tion is started the position of the stripes .will be reversed; that is to say by racking to the right, in FigiS, the stripes'are shown the right hand ends, but, as herembefore stated, when the racking movement is reversed on the starting of .the knitting operation the right hand ends of the stripes will be located higher than the lett hand ends thereof, so that the direction in which the stripes may run is determined by the direction of racking movement which is first given to the bed, either to the right or to ine lett, as the first course of knitting i? started. li the' racking movement is rst ven in one direction then the tension upon es are located With the highest ends at the lett and iaerefore the tension 1s so arranged that the greatest tension will be reversed in the mar er 'hereinbefore stated, the-n the tension would likevviseA have toibo reversed so that the greatest tension would he given the Worlr upon the right side. To

instance'innning in a direction opposite to that shown in Fig. 9, but of a solid form as distinguished from a lac'e or open mesh torni, the rear needle bed is racked or from 'its normal position shown in Fig. 5 to the position shown in Fig. 2, just prior to a ronT ot stitches -being .formed and-then prior to a succeeding row ofA stitches being right or hach to its normal position as shown in Fig. 5, and so'on. This manner 0 1' 'Way o racking or shogging the needle bed will during the feeding of a different. colorerL Y'. cated a mas across the Work, and the Jforegoing manner in which the needle bed is racked or shogged is also the manner in needle bed is rackedv'orshogged racking or shogging of the rear needle heil given upon the lett side of the Work. It, the position of the stripes, however, were 105 with the lett hand ends thereof higherthan i ne worlr Will be upon one side, but if the In the present improvement the 100.

iorm a bias stripe otl a contrasting color, tor

shofffred one needle to the-left for instance formed the needle bed is shogged to the lrform a solid stripe loe formation-of the-whole fabric 130 'on e. 'hen, however, it formons style of lace or open ine-sh work stripe, (the various styles thereot` being determined lo); the Withdrawal or certain needesired to dies, that is to say the more needles that are` Withdrawn the more open will he the mesh),

the rear needle hed is racked or shogged in a vdifferent wey or manner, that is to sev, prior to e row et stitehes l@ rear needle hed is iii-st racked or shogged :from 'its normal position shown in Fig. 5 to the posi-tion shown in Fig. 2, this being one needle or one site?, and then after coin-pleting a round of stitches, thatis tivo courses of stitches, -t `is reelred or shogged another needle or another step es shown in Fig. 3

and then in the seine manner the needle hed is recited or shogged lie/cli to its norma-l or originel posi-tion es vshown in 5, stel hv sten, se thstbv thisv last procedure a di ent et pe troni that shown as s oon-ii nous or iid Color stripe is obtained, such strip e having lace et'ect, and located on e hiss. ,lifter the formation of this stripe es and when it is desired to form another stripe et the side thereof if this is found desirable Vthe rear needle hed is recited or shogged in the saine nien-ner as shoivnin Figs. 2 and 5. 'When the carriage is moving in one direegfhtion the front bank of needles il will cest .ed and complete stitches, while the rrei-r henk 4G only make loops. the needles ere out of engagement with the carriage Cenelec ,s, the .rear needle hed is racked in the nienner hereinheifore deserihed. Duringone movement of the een r' ege 1n one direction seeh carriage will pees over the .nee-die beds and hoth front and rear needles will ons completing e twice, We apprehend, the eher of stitches in' this stroke as in the previous one, and when the carriage cam-locksere out of engagement with the needle hutts, th

needlel hed may he racked or sh d. ln other Words during tie'process z knitting While the carriage cem-locks are out of engagement with thel needle butts, the rear needle hed in the present instance is rst racked or shogged in one dire tion as to the 59 left and then racked or shogged in the opposite direction as to the right, Figs. 2 and 5, to forni the ordinary continuous stripe, butlwhen the lace design stripe is. for-ined then the carriage intermediate its movement and- While vthe cam-locks are out of engagement with the needle butts, is rst racked to theposition shown in Figf land then further racked-another step shown in Fig. 8

I and then .this is reversed, es shown Figs..-

00 Vl and 5,.

In knitting the tie, it is started with 'a certain Width in the '.ninchine, as hereinbefore stated, .as for instance itis started With the. gaveatest Width, las aft 5G, the trinn tion'rthereoif bei-ng subsequently being tor-ined th lfhile however lar I.porn ormed 'by f portion.

terfere with one another cutting and overedgin-g the tie, und hy oonstuntly racking or shifting in themanner hereinhefore described the rear bed lirst one Way end then the other if the solid continuous stripe is to he formed, thatis.alternately7 or by times to the left, and then reversing this a. plurality of times to the right if e different torni of stripe to lloe made, es tor instance L luce effect, and hy placinglthe left sident the tie under tension, by reason' oi' the take up mechanism shown the result is the locatie/not true bias stripes of different color or colors in the manner shown in Fig. 8, and hy grzidiielly throwing out of operation eertain needles on one side the tie will he tapered along one edge While remaining straight along its opposite edge until the narrow neel-c portion is reabhed, the edges of si the knitting of which neck portion, by gradually throwing into operation certain needles one edge of the tie will he tapered while 'the other remains straight until the opposite end of the tie is provided with a flaring The take up or tension ineens is necessary to give tension to the tie along` one side thereof, or otherwise the stitches or loops at that side ofthe machine would in- 'hy reason of their looseness, and therefore the greatest tension must be on that side Where the loops would otherwise be loose, for these loose loops would tend to heel; up on the iieedles and prevent the proper operation of the machine, so that greater tension is placed upon one side ot' the tie than on the other. During the lniittin of the tie the stripes apparently are located parallel with the top of the needle hed, as shovvn in Fig. 8j 1When, however, this tie is teken ou-t und properl7 shaped the ornamental bers ere in a true or substrintisilly true bias position, und this Without the necessity o t'stretching the Atie our4 of shape, so that there is no tendency of the tie after it inished to curl or assume any other positien than that shown in Fig. 9. By this improved process We are nhl to provide a. tie of either one or more colors, that is either e plain or irideseent eliect, heving stripes shot thereinto of a different color or colors, and which stripes ere located one true or substantially true biasobtained during the knitting-and Without the necessitiVT of stretching :the tie after it is made to give this result, and in Awhich :ill of the threads ,are of substantially lthe' inne lightness or looseness through-out the tie, 'und some of which stripesm-ay be of ef .particular design, as for instance having e laee eii'ect either 4off the seine or a, contrasting color or colors Eto the body of :the tie.

By this improved process the entire tie from end Ito end fthereof is knitted on a lbias l:se that the thread .loops -are #located on a true rocking it step by step :i plurality;r of

n will he knitted in pet-ri-illelisin, after' lee' . of being made up of lengthwise or longitudicolorto form knitted ornamental open mesh bias Work, and for- 'racking the thread loops or of needles step by step to one side and stantiallyftrue bias Athreads of a contrasting color oncolors to then to the other side ofthe thread loops vor stitches of another set of needles, and

during the knitting placing diii'erential tension.

'or substantially true-bias, and unravel on such bias While the fabric has the appearance nally extending Wales and courses. f

lVe claim as our invention:

l.' The process of knitting which consists during the knitting of the fabric in causing the thread loops or stitches of one set of needles to be racked 'or shogged relatively to the thread loop's or stitches of another set of needles and lduring the knitting placing the Workunder a differential tension, thereby providing a knitted fahricv having the thread loops thereof located on a true or suhand then during the knitting of an ornamental portion of such fabric needles in a horizontal thread scarfs having- `sulostanizially true bias stripes n therein of different formatiomvvhich consists during the knitting of a portion in causing the thread loopsor stitches of one set of needles to nately in opposite thread loops'of-another set of needles; then during the knitting of another portion of the tie causing the thread loops or stitches of one set of needles to be'racked a plurality of steps alternately in opposite directions to racking or shogging one set or different manner.I

2. The process of knitting which consists during the knitting of the fabric in causing the thread loops or stitches of' one set of needles to be racked or shoggcd relatively toV the thread loops or stitches of another set' of needles and during -the knitting placing the work under-a diifercntial tension, thereby providingia. knitted fabric having the thread loops thereof located on a true or suhstantially true bias, and during the knitting feeding into the work at a predetermined time a thread or threads of a contrasting another set of needles; then during the knitt-ing of the tie feeding into the Work a .thread or threads ot made, and during placing the saine under a differential tension. V l

6. The process of knitting neckties and scarfs having suhstantiallytrue bias stripes therein of different formation,. which sists during the knitting of a portion of the tie in causing the thread loops or stitches alternately in opposite directions tothe sides of thread loops ofanother Set of needles; then duringthe knitting of another portion of the tie, causin the thread loops or stitches of one setl of nee les to be racked a plurality of steps alternately in opposite directions` to the sideA of the thread loops or stitches of another set of needles; then during the knitting of the tie feeding into the Work a thread or threads of thehias stripe tobe made, and during the knitting of the tie placing th y a differential-j tension, greater along' one side thereof than the purpose of knitting such ornamental open-mesh bias Work, racking or shogging one set of needles in a different manner. v. A

3. The process of knitting which consists in causing the thread loops or stitches of one' set of needles to he'racked or shogged to one' side, and then to 'the other side of the thread loops or stitches of another set of needles to form the bodyof'the Work, and thenat a certain interval feeding into .the Work a thread or threads -to form a bias stripe, and during such feeding causing the thread loops or stitches? of lone set of needles to be racked step by step to one side, and then step by step to the other side of the thread loops or stitches of another' set of needles, and during the knitting placing the Work under a dierential tension.v

Il. The process of knitting which consists in causing the thread loop's or stitches of one set of needles to he racked rst to one side, and then to the other side of the thread loops or stitches of another set of needles, then during such knitting feeding into the work at 4a predetermined time a thread or e same under in which the said bias stripes run.

'7. The. process of knitting neckties and scarfs having substantially true bias stripes therein, which consists in first knitting the Wide portion ofthe tie and gradually WithdraWin-g certain needles, thereby to taper the tie to the neck portion thereof, and then knitting the same withtial parallelism, then din-ing a portion of the knitting of -the'.tie-'causing`- the thread loops or stitches of One set of needles 'to he racked alternately in opposite' directions to the sides of the thread loops or stitches of another set ofneedles; then-during the knitting of. another portion ofthe tie causing the thread loops or stitches of one set lof needles to he racked a plurality of steps alternately in opposite directions to the sides of the thread loops or stitches of another set of needles; and during sach knitting feeding into the Work a thread or threads of a conform a bias'stripe, and then feeding into the-work at a predetermined time a thread or threads to form `a bias stripe of a different' formation, and during such last feeding stitches of one the work under 5. The process of knitting neckties and f he racked or shifted alterdirections to the sides of the side of the thread loops or stitches ofthe hias stripe to be ,i the knitting of the tie conl of one set of needles to he racked or shiftedtra-sting color or colorsto form bias stripes,

of the tie so i along the other, yaccording to the direction t its edges in substan- Lesage@ and duringthe knitting of the tie placing the same under va differential tensions?"v 8. The process of knitting fabric having the thread loops thereof located on 4a' bias and having thereina plurality of stripes of different formations' located onafbias, which` consists during the knitting of the body of the fabric 1n causing the thread loops or stitches of one set ofggneedles .to be racked in one Way relatively f totheV thread loops or stitches of-anot-her setof needles, and at' intervals feeding into the Ifabric a thread or threads of a contrastin color to form the stripe; then during the formation of the other form of stripe and during the feeding of the thread therefor into the Work racking the thread loops or stitches of oney set of needles in a different Way relatively to the thread loops or stitches of another set of needles, and during the knitting placing the Work under a. differential tension.

9. The process of knittinga fabric having the thread loops thereof located on a bias and having'therein a plurality of stripes of different formations located on a bias, which consists during the knitting of the body of the fabric in causing the thread loops or stitches of one set of needlesA to be racked in one Way relatively to the thread loops or stitches of another set -of needles, and at intervals feeding into the fabric a thread or threads of a contrasting color to form the stripe; then during the formation of the other form of stripe and during the feeding of the thread therefor into the Work racking thethread loops or stitches of one set of needles in a -di'erent Way relatively to the thread, loopsv or stitches of another set of needles, and durinc the knitting placing the Work under a differential tension, the first said racking being one step alternatel in opposite directions; the second said rac 'ng being a plurality of steps first in one direction and then in another.

Signed at New York this 8 day of March, 1913.

Witnesses: l

H. E. FRIEND, C. A. WEED. 

